Timberline Moss Sweater

Free Sweater Knitting Pattern

This pullover is knit in one piece from the neck down. Narrow columns of embossed moss stitch run through the yoke, body, and sleeves, with reverse stockinette filling the spaces between them. Three shades of aran-weight wool shift from a pale neckband into oatmeal and then a deep brown toward the hem. Short rows lift the back of the neck so the sweater sits evenly on the shoulders. Sizes run from S through 4X.

Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X)
Numbers are given in that order throughout. When only one number appears, it applies to every size.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 36 [40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 58] inches (90 [100, 110, 120, 137, 142, 147] cm)
Upper arm: 11 [12, 14, 16, 17.25, 18, 19] inches (28 [30, 35, 40, 43, 45, 48] cm)

Skills Required/Techniques Used:

Knit and purl, cast on and bind off; increasing and decreasing; working in the round on circulars; small circumferences on DPNs or magic loop; short rows (wrap and turn); picking up stitches. Optional: invisible ribbed bind-off.

Materials: 100% Wool Lion Brand (affiliate link) Fishermen's Wool aran weight yarn 465 yd (425 m) / 227g, Color Nature’s Brown - 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3) skeins. (MC)
100% Wool Lion Brand (affiliate link) Fishermen's Wool aran weight yarn 465 yd (425 m) / 227g, Color Natural - 1 skein (CC1).
100% Wool Lion Brand (affiliate link) Fishermen's Wool aran weight yarn 465 yd (425 m) / 227g, Color Oarmeal - 1 skein. (CC2)

Needles: circular US #7 (4.50mm) 21” (52 cm) and 24” (60 cm) OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE
US #7 (4.50mm) double-pointed needles OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE

Notions: yarn/tapestry needle, stitch markers, waste yarn.

Gauge for stockinette st: 18 sts x 24 rows = 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm)


Pattern Notes:

Embossed Moss Stitch in rounds (EMS)

Each strip is 4 sts. The number of reverse stockinette sts described in the sweater instructions.

Round 1 : k1, p1, k2. (8 sts)
Round 2: Repeat round 1.
Round 3: k2, p1, k1.
Round 4: Repeat round 3.

Repeat rounds 1-4

Embossed Moss Stitch in rows (EMS)

Each strip is 4 sts.

Row 1 (RS): k1, p1, k2.
Row 2: p2, k1, p1.
Row 3: k2, p1, k1.
Row 4: p1, k1, p2.

Repeat rows 1-4


1x1 Rib in Rounds:
All rounds * knit 1, purl 1 – repeat from *

Reversed Stockinette St in Rounds
All rounds: purl

Reversed Stockinette St in Rows
RS row: purl
WS row: knit

To wrap and turn in the short rows:
With yarn in front sl 1 stitch to the right needle
Move yarn between the needles to the back
Slip the stitch back to the left needle
Turn the work and bring the yarn back to the wrong side between the needles

Abbreviations:
k – knit
p – purl
st, sts – stitch, stitches
yo - yarn over
ssk - slip, slip knit. This is a left-slanting decrease.
k2tog - knit 2 tog. This is a right-slanting decrease.
s2kp2 - slip 2 sts as if to k2tog (knit 2 tog), k 1, p2sso (pass 2 slip sts over). This is a centered double decrease
co - cast on
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
pu&k - pick up and knit
dpn – double-pointed needles
M1 (Make 1 increase) - Make a backward loop over the right-hand needle and in the next row knit (purl) it as a regular stitch.
w&t – wrap and turn
EMS - Embossed Moss Stitch
MC – main color
CC1 – contrast color 1
CC2 – contrast color 2


Short Overview of the Pattern

Worked top down in the round. The yoke is EMS columns with reverse-stockinette spaces. Increases sit in those spaces and alternate between the start and the end of each space. Short rows then raise the back neck. Sleeves are set aside, underarms are cast on, and the body continues in the round. Sleeves are worked down from the underarm. Body and sleeves finish in 1×1 rib.


Sweater

Yoke

All sizes:

With CC1 yarn and circular needles (16” or 21”), cast on 70 sts. Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: *EMS, p1, from * repeat 14 times.

Rounds 2-4: repeat round 1.

Increases are always in the reverse-stockinette spaces. Alternate M1 at the beginning of each space, then at the end.


Sizes S (M):

For these sizes the increases are worked in every 4th round. Alternate the increases at the beginning and at the end of the reverse stockinette st.

Round 5 (increase round): *EMS, m1, p1, from * repeat 14 times. 84 sts

Round 6: *EMS, p2, from * repeat 14 times.

Rounds 7-8: repeat round 6

Round 9 (increase round): *EMS, p2, m1, from * repeat 14 times. 98 sts.

Round 10: *EMS, p3, from * repeat 14 times.

Rounds 11-12: repeat round 10.

Repeat rounds 5-12 five (six) more times. Total rows 52 (60). 238 (266) sts.



Sizes L (XL):

For these sizes the increases are worked mostly in every 3rd round. Alternate the increases at the beginning and at the end of the reverse stockinette st.

Round 5 (increase round): *EMS, m1, p1, from * repeat 14 times. 84 sts

Round 6: *EMS, p2, from * repeat 14 times.

Round 7: *EMS, p2, from * repeat 14 times.

Round 8 (increase round): *EMS, p2, m1, from * repeat 14 times. 98 sts.

Round 9: *EMS, p3, from * repeat 14 times.

Round 10: repeat round 9.

For size L: work 30 rounds, increasing in every 3rd round (10 inc rounds) and 24 rounds increasing in every 4th round (6 inc rounds). Total 54 rounds. 294 sts.

For size XL: work 58 rounds, increasing in every 3rd round (19 inc rounds). 336 sts.



Sizes 2X (3X, 4X):

For these sizes the increases are worked mostly in every 3rd round. Alternate the increases at the beginning and at the end of the reverse stockinette st.

Round 5 (increase round): *EMS, m1, p1, from * repeat 14 times. 84 sts

Round 6: *EMS, p2, from * repeat 14 times.

Round 7: *EMS, p2, from * repeat 14 times.

Round 8 (increase round): *EMS, p2, m1, from * repeat 14 times. 98 sts.

Round 9: *EMS, p3, from * repeat 14 times.

Round 10: repeat round 9.

For size 2X: work 51 rounds, increasing in every 3rd round (17 inc rounds) and 10 rounds increasing in every 2nd round (5 inc rounds). Total 61 rounds. 378 sts.

For sixe 3X: work 48 rounds, increasing in every 3rd round (16 inc rounds) and 14 rounds increasing in every 2nd round (7 inc rounds). Total 62 rounds. 392 sts.

For size 4X: work 48 rounds, increasing in every 3rd round (16 inc rounds) and 16 rounds increasing in every 2nd round (8 inc rounds). Total 64 rounds. 406 sts.

Number of stitches in reverse stockinette spaces after all the increases: 13 (15, 17, 20, 23, 24, 25) sts.


Yarn color placement:
work CC1 – 16 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 20) rounds;
work CC2 – 16 (18, 18, 20, 20, 20, 20) rounds;
work MC – to the hem (and down the sleeves). Change color at the start of a round.


Divide for sleeves and bodice:

Divide the stitches into the following portions, starting 4 (4, 5, 8, 9, 9, 9) sts before the beginning-of-round marker:
46 (50, 56, 68, 76, 78, 80) sts for the left sleeve, place a marker
73 (83, 91, 100, 113, 118, 123) sts for the back, place a marker
46 (50, 56, 68, 76, 78, 80) sts for the right sleeve, place a marker
73 (83, 91, 100, 113, 118, 123) for the front, place a marker


Back Neck Shaping with Short Rows

Work EMS and reverse stockinette st as established, now in rows. Start at the marker between front and left sleeve.
Short row 1: work as est until 6 sts before the marker between the right sleeve and the front, w&t.
Short row 2: work as est until 6 sts before the marker between the left sleeve and the front, w&t.
Short row 3: work until 6 sts before w&t of previous RS row, w&t.
Short row 4: work until 6 sts before w&t of previous WS row, w&t.
Repeat short rows 3-4 two more times. On the last short row work to the beginning-of-round marker.
Next round: work one full round, picking up the wraps and working each wrap together with the stitch it was wrapped around.


Body

Transfer the left sleeve stitches to a length of a waste yarn, cast on 8 sts for the underarm, work back stitches as est., transfer the right sleeve stitches to a length of a waste yarn, cast on 8 sts for the underarm. Beginning of the round is in the middle of the left underarm stitches. Total sts after division = 162 (182, 198, 216, 242, 252, 262) sts.

Next round: work as est; work the underarm sts as follows: p2, EMS, p2 (working EMS at the place of the side seam).

Work as est for 17” (43 cm) or to desired length of the sweater, taking into consideration, that there will be a 2” (5.0 cm) 1x1 rib.

Next round: *k1, p2tog, repeat from * to the end of the round.
Next round: *k1, p1, repeat from * to the end of the round.
Repeat last round 10 more times. Bind off in rib (or use an invisible ribbed bind-off).


Sleeve

Sleeves are worked in the round, on dpn or circular 16” (40 cm) needles. You can also use longer circular needles and “magic loop” method. Sleeves are worked as est.

Transfer sts from a waste yarn to dpn, distribute the stitches evenly. Pick up and knit 8 sts underarm. = 54 (58, 64, 76, 84, 86, 88) sts.

Beginning of round is the middle of the underarm.

Next round: work as est; work the underarm sts as follows: p2, EMS, p2 (working EMS at the place of the seam).

Work as est for 18” (45 cm) or to desired length of the sleeve, taking into consideration, that there will be a 2” (5.0 cm) 1x1 rib.

Next round: *k1, p2tog, repeat from * to the end of the round.
Next round: *k1, p1, repeat from * to the end of the round.
Repeat last round 10 more times. Bind off in rib (or use an invisible ribbed bind-off).

Work the second sleeve the same way.


Finishing

Weave in the ends of the yarn. Block the piece.

Have fun!