Free Doll Coat Knitting Pattern
Materials: Bernat Baby Sport DK weight yarn (100% acrylic), 1255 yards (1148 meters) / 350 gr, color Light Lilac – 1 ball or 100 yards. (A)
Fun Fur by Lion Brand (100% polyester), 64 yards (59 meters)/ 50 gr, color Lavender – 1 skein (B)
4 stitch markers
3 buttons about 10mm in diameter.
Needles: US # 4 (3.5 mm) OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE double pointed needles (dpn), one set 8” long for the coat and another set 4-5” long for the sleeves. Alternatively, instead of 8” long dpn, you can use 2 pairs of circular needles.
Hook: 3.5 mm
Gauge: 16 sts = 4" (10 cm)
K – knit
P - purl
m1 - Make 1 increase - I used the increase described by Elizabeth Zimmerman. Make a backward loop over the right-hand needle and in the next row/round purl/knit as a regular stitch.
p&k – pick up and knit
Stockinette Stitch in rows:
1st row and all odd rows - knit sts
2nd row and all even rows - purl sts
Stockinette Stitch in rounds:
knit all rounds
Garter Stitch in rows:
knit all rows
Garter stitch in rounds:
1st round and all odd rounds - knit sts
2nd round and all even rounds - purl sts
The coat is worked top-down, seamlessly, back and forth, in stockinette stitch, with raglan sleeves, on 2 long double pointed needles (dpn) or 2 pairs of circular needles. Yarn is changed every row, that's why you knit 2 rows in one direction, then purl 2 rows back. Odd rows are worked in yarn A, even rows are worked in yarn B.
The button band is crocheted.
Increases for raglan (m1) are made before and after raglan stitch in every odd row until the division, except row 1. In this way you increase the number of stitches in every odd row by 8. Sleeves are worked in the round on short dpn.
Increases for A-silhouette (m1) on bodice are made before and after the marked stitches.
Selvedge sts worked: k the first and purl the last stitch in the row.
With yarn A cast on 38 sts, work the next 3 rows with yarn A:
Row 1: knit.
Row 2: purl back, place markers on raglan stitches: 1 selvedge - 4 front - 1 raglan (place marker) - 8 sleeve - 1 raglan (place marker) - 8 back - 1 raglan (place marker) - 8 sleeve - 1 raglan (place marker) - 4 front - 1 selvedge.
Row 3: knit, make increases before and after raglan sts (total increase of 8 sts) = 46 sts
Row 4: move the work to the other end of the dpn and knit the row with yarn B.
Row 5: purl with yarn A, increasing before and after raglan sts = 54 sts
Row 6: move the work to the other end of dpn, purl with yarn B.
Continue as established through row 18. In row 18, you will have 102 sts.
The following table details the rows for your convenience:
Row 7: yarn A, knit, increase by 8 sts on raglan lines = 62
Row 8: yarn B, knit, turn
Row 9: yarn A, purl, increase by 8 sts on raglan lines =70
Row 10: yarn B, purl, turn
Row 11: yarn A, knit, increase by 8 sts on raglan lines = 78
Row 12: yarn B, knit, turn
Row 13: yarn A, purl, increase by 8 sts on raglan lines = 86
Row 14: yarn B, purl, turn
Row 15: yarn A, knit, increase by 8 sts on raglan lines = 94
Row 16: yarn B, knit, turn
Row 17: yarn A, purl, increase by 8 sts on raglan lines = 102
Row 18: yarn B, purl, turn
Divide stitches for body and sleeves.
Row 19: yarn A, k 14 (1 selvedge and 13 front), transfer the next 24 sts (sleeve) to a holder or waste yarn; cast on 3 sts for the underarm, k 26 sts (back), transfer the next 24 sts (sleeve) to a holder or waste yarn, cast on 3 sts for the underarm, k 13, p 1 selvedge (front). You have 60 sts on the working needles and 24 sts on each holder for sleeves.
Row 20: yarn B, knit.
Row 21: yarn A, purl.
Row 22: yarn B, purl.
Starting with row 23, make increases in every 6th row. Row 23 has 7 increases as follows:
Row 23: yarn A, k1 selvedge, m1, k 14, m1, k1 (place marker), m1, k 14, m1 (place marker on increase stitch), k 14, m1, k1 (place the marker), m1, k 14, m1, p1 = 67 sts
In the following increase rows (29, 35 and 41), make increases after the 1st selvedge st, before the last selvedge st, and before and after each marked st (8 increases total). After row 41, you should have 91 sts. Work as established to row 47.
Row 24: yarn B, knit
Row 25: yarn A, purl
Row 26: yarn B, purl
Row 27: yarn A, knit
Row 28: yarn B, knit
Row 29: yarn A, purl, increase for 8 = 75 sts
Row 30: yarn B, purl
Row 31: yarn A, knit
Row 32: yarn B, knit
Row 33: yarn A, purl
Row 34: yarn B, purl
Row 35: yarn A, knit, increase for 8 = 83 sts
Row 36: yarn B, knit
Row 37: yarn A, purl
Row 38: yarn B, purl
Row 39: yarn A, knit
Row 40: yarn B, knit
Row 41: yarn A, purl, increase for 8 = 91 sts
Row 42: yarn B, purl
Row 43: yarn A, knit
Row 44: yarn B, knit
Row 45: yarn A, purl
Row 46: yarn B, purl
Rows 47 -50 knit with yarn A only. Bind off.
Transfer 24 sts to short dpn, distributing them evenly, p&k 3 underarm sts. Mark the beginning of the round = 27 sts
Work 26 rounds in stockinette: one round in yarn A, one round in yarn B. Work the next 5 rounds (27 - 31) in garter st using yarn A only. Bind off.
With yarn A, crochet 1 row of single crochet (sc) along the edges of the front. On the right front edge make 3 button holes: sc - chain 2 - sc.
Sew 3 buttons to the left front edge.