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Free Knitting and Crochet Patterns from Elaine Phillips

Subtle Mesh Summer Cardigan

Difficulty level: *** Intermediate

Free Cardigan Knitting Pattern

The remarkable thing about this summer cardigan is the mesh pattern that I chose. It resembles filet crochet, even though it is knitted, and it's very easy to work. However, the special thing about it is that it's actually two-color. The second color is mostly covered by the first color, so you get only glimpses of it as you move around. This is why I called it the "subtle mesh". For this cardigan I used contrasting colors. You can also use similar colors, for a slightly different effect.

The cardigan is worked sideways, cuff-to-cuff, and features side seams. The neckline and front opening, hem, including side slits, and sleeves are finished with applied I-cord.

There is also a sweater version of this cardigan!

Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2X, 3X)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 34 [38, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches (86 [96, 106, 117, 127, 137] cm)
Length: 25 [26, 27, 27.5, 28, 28.5] inches (63 [65, 67, 69, 70, 72] cm)

Materials: Willow Yarns Meadow DK weight yarn (100% cotton), 115 yards (105 meters)/50 gr, color Ocean – 5 (6, 7, 8, 10, 12) skeins (MC)
Yarns Meadow DK weight yarn (100% cotton), 115 yards (105 meters)/50 gr, color Peacock – 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins (CC)

Needles: US 5 (3.75 mm) straight and long circular OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE

Gauge for mesh pattern:
16 sts x 28 rows = 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm)

Pattern Notes

Mesh Pattern
Even number of sts.
Row 1 (RS): purl
Row 2: knit
Row 3: k 2, *sl 1 wyib, k 1, repeat from *
Row 4: *k 1, sl 1 wyif, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k 2.
Row 5: k 1, * yo, k2tog, repeat from * to last st, k 1.
Row 6: purl
Repeat rows 1-2

Color changes
Rows 1-2, 5-6 – MC
Rows 3-4 - CC

Abbreviations:
k - knit
p - purl
ssk - slip, slip, knit (left leaning decrease)
k2tog – knit 2 together (right leaning decrease)
M1 (Make 1 increase) - I used the increase described by Elizabeth Zimmerman: Make a backward loop over the right-hand needle and in the next row knit (purl) it as a regular stitch.
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
w&t - wrap and turn
sl 1 wyib – slip 1 with yarn in back
sl 1 wyif – slip 1 with yarn in front


Selvedge stitches: first st slip as if to knit, last st purl


To wrap and turn in the short rows:
With yarn in front sl 1 stitch to the right needle
Move yarn between the needles to the back
Slip the stitch back to the left needle
Turn the work and bring the yarn back to the wrong side between the needles




Cardigan

The cardigan is knitted in a mesh stitch back and forth, sideways (cuff-to-cuff) as one piece, starting from the left sleeve, then the body of the cardigan, then the right sleeve. There are side-to-sleeve seams. The cardigan is finished with applied I-cord. The cardigan has short 5” (12 cm) sleeves. If you would like to change the length of the sleeves, work more or less rows for each sleeve. If you would like to change the length of the cardigan, cast on more or less sts as instructed at the beginning of the Body section. The V-neck opening is shaped with short rows.


Left Sleeve

Cast on 50 (58, 66, 70, 74, 78) sts (there are 2 selvedge sts included) and work mesh pattern (see above).

Work 36 rows, increasing the sleeve as follows:
increase by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row in every 12th row 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 3) times;
increase by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row in every 8th row 0 (0, 0, 3, 3, 0) times;
increase by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row in every 6th row 0 (2, 6, 6, 6, 0) times;
increase by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row in every 4th row 8 (6, 0, 0, 0, 0) times;
increase by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row in every 2nd row 2 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0) times;


Body

Row 37: at the end of this row cast on 70 (71, 72, 72, 72, 73) sts. At the end of the next row, cast on the same amount of sts. These are body stitches, which form the front and the back. If you would like a longer jacket, you need to cast on more stitches (the same amount for the front and the back). Total stitch count is now 210 (216, 222, 224, 228, 230).

Work 52 (58, 64, 70, 76, 82) rows. These are the left shoulder rows.

AT THE SAME TIME work darts as follows.

Darts are made by working a number of increases at the left side of the front and the same number of decreases at the right side of the front.

Note: there are no darts in size S.

The increases begin from the 1st body row and at the 1st cast-on stitch for body (place marker after last sleeve stitch. To preserve the pattern, the increases or decreases are made in pairs (2 increases on both side of the marker and are made in the 1st row of the pattern (to make it less noticeable). If the count of the row below will place the increases (decreases) in any other row, just shift it to the 1st row of the pattern.

Increase by 1 st on both sides of the marker (2 sts increase)
In every 16th row 0 (1, 0, 0, 0, 0) times
In every 14th row 0 (3, 2, 0, 0, 0) times
In every 12th row 0 (0, 3, 5, 3, 1) times
In every 10th row 0 (0, 0, 1, 4, 7) times


Back Neck Shaping

Work first 105 (108, 111, 112, 114, 115) sts of RS row. Transfer the rest of the stitches to another circular needle. Continue to work the back stitches only. Decrease by 1 st in every RS row 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 6) times by working k2tog (2 sts before the selvedge st) at the end of the row. Total 8 (8, 14, 14, 14, 14) rows.

Work 20 (24, 14, 14, 18, 20) more rows.

Increase by 1 st in every RS row 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 6) times by working m1 at the end of the row. Total 8 (8, 14, 14, 14, 14) rows. Set aside.


Left Front and Front V-Neck Shaping

The V-neck is shaped with short rows.

Work the sts that were transferred to an additional needle. Transfer the stitches to the working needle and bind off 7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 13) sts at the beginning of the row and work to the end of the row. Turn.

Work the wrong side row until last 5 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts, w&t.

Work RS row, turn. Work WS row until 5 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts before w&t of the previous WS row.

Work total 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 11) short rows (RS and WS).

After last w&t, work RS row, turn.

Work full WS row, picking up the wrap and working it together with the stitch it was wrapped around.

Purl another RS row. Transfer all the stitches to a long circular needle. These stitches will be bound off when working applied I-cord.


Right Front

With MC cast on 104 (109, 114, 116, 119, 118) sts.

Knit 1 row, this is a WS row. Continue to work mesh pattern.

Work RS row. Turn.

Work 64 (69, 74, 76, 79, 78) sts, w&t.

Work next RS row.

Work next WS row, working 5 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts more then in the previous row, w&t.

Work total 8 (9, 10, 10, 11, 11) short rows (RS and WS).

After last w&t, work RS row, turn.

Work full WS row, picking up the wrap and working it together with the stitch it was wrapped around. At the end of the row cast on 7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 13) sts.


Right Shoulder

Continue to work back and front again. Work RS row starting from back, then continue over the cast on sts of the right neck and then front sts. The stitch count should be 210 (216, 222, 224, 228, 230) sts again.

Work 52 (58, 64, 70, 76) rows. These are the right shoulder rows.

AT THE SAME TIME work darts as follows.

Darts are made by working a number of increases at the left side of the front and the same number of decreases at the right side of the front.

Note: there are no darts in size S.

The decreases begin from the 1st shoulder row. Place marker after 74 (76, 78, 79, 80, 82) st from the end of the row. To preserve the pattern, the increases or decreases are made in pairs (2 increases on both side of the marker and are made in the 1st row of the pattern (to make it less noticeable). If the count of the row below will place the increases (decreases) in any other row, just shift it to the 1st row of the pattern.

Decrease for 1 st on both sides of the marker (2 sts increase)
In every 16th row 0 (1, 0, 0, 0, 0) times
In every 14th row 0 (3, 2, 0, 0, 0) times
In every 12th row 0 (0, 3, 5, 3, 1) times
In every 10th row 0 (0, 0, 1, 4, 7) times

Work next RS row. Bind off 70 (71, 72, 72, 72, 73) sts at the beginning of the next row. Work to the end of the row. Turn. Bind off 70 (71, 72, 72, 72, 73) sts at the beginning of the row. Work to the end of the row. This is the 1st sleeve row.


Sleeve

Work 36 rows, decreasing the sleeve as follows:
decrease by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row in every 2nd row 2 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0) times;
decrease by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row in every 4th row 8 (6, 0, 0, 0, 0) times;
decrease by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row in every 6th row 0 (2, 6, 6, 6, 0) times;
decrease by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row in every 8th row 0 (0, 0, 3, 3, 0) times;
increase by 1 st at the beginning and the end of the row in every 12th row 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 3) times;

Total after the decreases 50 (58, 66, 70, 74, 78) sts.

Don’t bind off, leave sts on the needle. The sts will bind off, while working applied I-cord.


Finishing

Sew sleeve and side seams, leaving 6” (15 cm) at the bottom unsown for the side slits.

Work applied I-cord along the bottom of the sleeves.

Work applied I-cord along the bottom of the back and along the slit’s sides.

Work applied I-cord along the front slits, front center and neckline, starting from the left front slit.

In fact, you can work the applied I-cord first and sew the seams after.

See video instructions for knitting applied I-cord.



Enjoy!



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